buttonholes

Today I sewed on the sleeves of a short sleeved white blouse.

Fixed the sleeve heads of a long-sleeve blouse made of a shirting fabric a bit like onsnaburg.

and after cleaning my iron when a bit of lightweight fusible interfacing jumped onto the soleplate, I stitched the buttonholes on that blouse.
It still needs a collar and hem and the buttons sewn on.

Hopefully tomorrow I will have a bit more on the finish column.

One Blouse UFO finished

It 'didn't need much'.
Buttons, hem. But I also needed to take it in and I had bound the seams. I sewed the buttons on the other day, but was dithering on the hem.
So, finally I sat down and completed it today.

I will take a photo wearing it...promise! I am using the current UFO contest on Pattern Review to motivate me to get some of these incomplete garments done!

updates

Well, the Willows by the Watercourses wearable art was not required for the H2Oh! exhibition.
But as they had 521 entries, with space for 34, it isn't surprising.

So, now I will do a bit more to create a bit of texture on the bark. And, with Tears for the Daughters of My People, I am 2 up on my solo show at Lady Sew and Sew in March! Also, I can use them for the fashion show in the summer.
I had been saying I wanted to get ahead so I wasn't always doing something for the last minute!

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In the meanwhile, Pattern Review sent me a pattern for managing the Menswear contest in late Nov, early Dec. (I could choose.)

not sure when I will make a coat not drafted for me specifically...but you never know.

And the current contest is about sewing UFO's. (Un Finished Objects) and I have hopes of getting some of the blouses finished that have been hanging on my cupboard door. We shall see. We are going on a quick visit to York next week for a memorial service for Mum at the care home she used to live. Quick visits have quite a lingering affect on me. 😩

And the bead keeps going on and on...25-30 September

Finally* last week's beads.

week 39- Sept 2016

The beaded fabric square for 1 October will go with this week. I am hoping to find wee small orange sequins to finish them - else we will have to go with copper. All the others have translucent though.

no.269

no.270

no.271

no.272

no.273

no.274

and all of September's beaded tassels. I Loved working with these colours...and having them glowing at me from the beading corner!

*Last week really did a number on me! So, much recovering. and actually I am pleased to say that I am quite glad I didn't get through to Round 4 of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee. But on the other hand, it is just my thing! You can see the notice and rules here.

Colette Rue - my version

Then, having completed 'Tears' and submitted to SAQA before the end of September and even before bedtime on Friday - with help from Mr. Thoughtful who did the photos.... Why do I always do work that cameras can't focus on? ...fabric, rust, quarts crystals, what do you mean focus?
...
I then worked ALL day Saturday to make the dress for the 3rd round of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee. Okay 10:30am start, but that is early for me to get in here to work. and 15min for lunch and a bit of time to make dinner. So, 10:30am started cutting and completed the review at 12:30am late night.
If you want more of the details, you can read it here. As you remember, we were to make a garment using a Colette Rue dress pattern which was provided.

Never again will I cut and make a whole lined dress in one day, Thankyouverymuch.

And here are some photos.
Keep in mind they were taken at 11pm and thereafter.

front

back

detail

Ch-changes

The 3rd round of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee requires you to use a supplied pattern download and make it your own while still retaining the look.

So we were given access to a download of the new Colette Rue pattern.
I am doing view 2.

I don't normally work from other people's patterns. So after I got it printed out and taped and cut, I compared it to my pattern.

For the most part it was similar.
Some of the changes.
The armscye (and the sleevehead to match).

This is the difference.

And I moved the tucks over the bust to be more at the side. which I think will draw less attention to a larger bust. shown in pink.

I have got the toile/muslin made and from evidence of that, I also opted to lengthen the bodice because I am uncomfortable with a high waist.
So, now to cut and sew the 'real thing'. more photos of things later when I am not so stressed about how much I am doing at one time!

Well, interesting!

So, I thought the results for Round 2 of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee would be up tomorrow. But there was a message after tea tonight to go look.

AND...I got through with my draped indigo top!

One of the images I posted in the review showing where the fabric grain lines were to show how I used the bias. The markings of the indigo more or less followed the straight of grain. The larger marks were pretty much on the cross grain.

At hearing this good news, the not so great news I got yesterday about the cancellation of my workshop at the National Needlework Archive, became a positive! I had wondered when I would make the Round 3 project if I got through! So, when that is announced, I will at least have the time to see what I can do. Watch this space.

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Today I went with 2 friends to Holme Grange Craft Village, which has little individual shops. A couple we used to like have shut down. But we did find enough to buy. And to sit in the "Can you believe it is the end of September?" sunshine to have some tea and cake.

And then to visit the chipmunks before we went home.

This one was always so busy I never got a full photo of him. He had a stash down under the earth at this point and frequently added to it, burying himself halfway in the earth!

This one was just watching from the edge of the nest box the whole time.

And I missed this one when he was up close eating.

So, had to do with a photo of him having a wash...which is why he hasn't got any hands in this photo!

Another attempt of the same one but he was just about to head somewhere else out of camera shot.

I always find it intriguing that chipmunks are considered pets like hamsters here. Where I grew up, they were a common woodland animal like squirrels.

On the bias - Ripples and Swirls

Following the teaser...
I mentioned the other day that I had got through to round 2 on the Pattern Review Sewing Bee. So, Round 2 was to do a garment that is on the bias.

So, I had the idea of a stripe something, with different directions for each piece. But when I put the fabric on the dummy to get an idea if it would work, I swiftly saw I could drape it on the stand! Wow. and besides, this would work for the SAQA Call for entry in November for H2Oh!

The fabric is Linen with a woven windowpane check. I had dyed it using shibori methods in an indigo workshop a few years ago. I didn't want to just cut a boring garment from it, I wanted to showcase it. So, now was the time.

Development of the draping...

side-back-front

I used tucks and pleats to keep the fabric on the bias as it swirled round the figure.

Then I needed a way to try it on. So I placed my bodice pattern over the armhole area and cut it out, making sure to add seam allowance. Later I added cap sleeves.



And the final top -
 

To read more of the details of the making, you can read the review here.

I may do a bit more to it for the H2Oh! call. Not that it needs it! But I am thinking about adding some beads or something collected in some of the ripples/swirls.

Doing something with this!

Very excited about it too. Finally some way to showcase this fabric.

But you have to wait til I have time to sort photos!

on the interwebs

Cool thing!
The shorts I made the other day were good enough to get me through to round 2 on the Pattern Review Sewing Bee! Amazing.

Waiting til tomorrow to find out the next challenge.


Also, my SAQA Benefit Auction piece, Ramshackle Place is featured on the SAQA Europe and Middle East Blog.

Ramshackle Place

12x12in

They are featuring a donated piece each day from the artists in our region. A link to the blog directly - scroll down and see the ones before Snowden...and return to see the ones after!

And shorts are done.

You can read the details here in my review.


had to have a closure and a photo of it.


and a better look at the front

Shorts in Turquoise

I am using the Pattern Review Sewing Bee contest for motivation to make a pair of summer shorts. You can watch the gallery at that link as it fills up. The deadline for this round is the 7th September.
Yes, summer is on it's way out. But sometimes I am told to bring shorts for physio sessions. So, I want something that I don't feel ridiculous in.
Whether I will get it entered in time, who knows. But it is a motivation.

I thought I may as well see what a muslin/trial pair of trousers I did a few years ago looked like now. I thought I could take the clues and change for something that works now. But! they actually fit! So, I have been just making some changes to the pattern that will suit shorts. I want them a bit looser at the hem than the trouser pattern is at that point.

Also I have drafted the front to have pockets somewhat like for jeans. and the back will have a yoke like jeans.

The main body of the shorts will be from a fine wale corduroy in turquoise. I will be using the fabric with the batik ovals for accents...like in the back of the pocket. maybe some piping? like on the yoke seam? but I will see how that goes. But if they turn out nice, I might wear them for more than just physio sessions! So the turquoise will match most of my summer blouses.

Red skirt worn

I wore the red moleskin skirt yesterday. Managed to get the Thoughtful Man to take a photo.
Keep in mind that I wore it to church and to make dinner, not too bad.

The lower waist worked, but I need to make the waist more snug (Hurrah!) so I still turned the band over when I was wearing it to make it tight enough not to slip around and let my blouse out!

Wearing it with a white on white embroidered lawn blouse and a purchase 3/4 length sleeve cardigan.

Red skirts

A while ago I was sewing along with a Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest. Then had to stop and work on textile art things. My wardrobe was based on red, black and white.

Now it is time to begin the finishes as and when I can.
First up, putting hook and bar closure on the waistband of these red skirts! Not hard really.
Why 2 red skirts. One is a bit darker more of a blue red, if you know what I mean. So they will go with different things.

red moleskin A line with flare skirt

dark red corduroy trumpet skirt

I was trying the idea of making the front just a bit shorter, as I always seem to have to fold over the waistband in front to make it even. I do know how to describe this pattern and fitting wise, but this has been a very bad head day.

Sorry for hanger views. With the bad head, I wasn't up to trying to do model shots. When I get one of the blouses done, I will do the skirt and blouse model thing.

Cuff 'em

Eventual progress on wardrobe...3 days to do 6 cuffs sets.
Basically, the continuous bound plackets take more time than you would think. Especially when I hadn't added them to my break down list.

But here are the dresses and blouses ready for hand work. I like to hand stitch things like cuffs, waistbands, collars and etc after stitching and turning to inside.

As you can see collars are to come. But I need to work out the fit. I have lost a little of that medicine weight gain, so may need to trim a bit from the CF before adding the button stands. (I added a little there after finding the last set of blouses were just a bit snug over the tum. Now they aren't. Hurrah!)

Continuous bound plackets and cuffs now can be done in the dark. Or something.

Wardrobe - Blouse with cap sleeves

I have had this fabric for a VERY long time. And when the wardrobe plans started looking like black and off-white, I rummaged around to find it.

I tried to do the Winifred Aldrich grown on cap sleeves adaptation to my bodice pattern. However, it asks you to raise the pattern at the shoulder end, lengthen it, as well as drawing a line up from the side seam.

Well.

Not sure how a crisp woven would work doing that, but basically I ended up with drooping fabric ...almost cowl-like...between neck and shoulder.

So, I darted the fullness into the neck. It worked, and carries a theme from the black knit top! It isn't really obvious because the play of light on the polyester jacquard effect fabric.

I sewed the blouse with French seams because the fabric shreaded whispy threads that have got onto everything. (Besides my dry rough hands catching on everything.) So, I stitched the button stands on and then tried it on to see how it fit.

Okay, I knew I had enlarged the base pattern, but somehow this would fit me with a couple more stone weight!

Then whilst I was doing the pleat neck thing and trying to work out how I was going to sort the toooo large bit. I realised, Oh. French seams.

I had done the first pass as was required wrong sides together with a narrow seam (I used the overlocker for this because of the whisps), then turn to right sides together and enclose the edges of the seam. So, I realised when I sewed the button stand on with the overlocker, I had done overlock pass right next to the edge, like I did for the first pass of the French seams. So, if you included the Seam allowances on the button stands and also on the blouse, it was something like over 4 cm too much. So, I went back at it and stitched them for the normal 1.5cm seam allowance and voila! It fit.

Phew.

Basic side dart pattern with several adaptations to get it be grown on/cut on cap sleeves a la Winifred Aldrich.

I finished the blouse with some of the buttons from a random pack I bought at a show, and whilst watching cooking shows have stitched beads round the collar and down the bodice sides of the button stand.

Oh, and hey! No problems with stitching the button holes!

And can you imagine this with the lacy black jacket over? I will show you when I get some photos wearing it.

Wardrobe - Trumpet skirt

Today's piece of the wardrobe is an off-white gabardine trumpet skirt with a faced waist finish.

Trumpet skirts fit to the hip and flare out from there, but the flare is integral to the pattern piece, rather than being added to the sides. The resulting pattern piece looks like...a trumpet bell!

I used a variegated white and black embroidery thread to topstitch at the waist and at the hem. This gives continuity for the black knit top. I am debating a topstitched motif or geometric shape, but will ponder that a while longer.

I like a faced waist treatment for skirts like these because I am short waisted. With an interfaced facing in the top, it still gives the support to the skirt that you would get with a waistband, but doesn't take up any more space.

Thanks for the feedback on the lacy jacket! Good ideas. I finished my article tonight, so perhaps I can get some more sewing done. Hopefully I can get photos of these garments whilst modelling them!

Wardrobe - lacy jacket

The next photo from the coordinating wardrobe I am doing is a black lacy jacket made of cotton lace. (actually the third sewn)

I thought that if I was doing a classy type of wardrobe, I needed a cardy type garment with a bit more class. For those moments when you are in restaurants who have confused the temp control for the walk-in cooler with the one for the dining area. You have been there I am sure. So you are all hunched up trying to stay warm rather than enjoying a moment out of the heat.

At the moment, I have pinned the fronts together to keep it on the hanger. In actuality, they hold nicely on their own when I wear this. I am debating a thinner but not skinny ribbon should I want to hold it together better. For instance with a blouse of silky type fabric (coming up!).

The pattern for this again was my side dart bodice pattern with set in cap sleeves. It is only just hip length. Instead of sewing darts in the lace, I pleated the darts into the side seam...just folds that release, rather than stitched down. It moulds the shape of the jacket to mine in a subtle way. The lace has no stretch, or I might have considered doing away with the dart.

I decided to finish the edges right the way around like you would a bolero using a satin ribbon. Stitched right side to wrong side and then flipped to the front. To hold it in place, I have stitched clear beads with a black lining in a beaded running stitch technique. Every now and then I did a tiny back stitch so the whole lot doesn't come off at once if I lose one.

The effect has somewhat ruffled the ribbon. I was considering beading the other side of the ribbon as well. But I have been looking at it several days and think this look is better. If the action of hand beading the other side causes a similar effect but the beads are not precisely lined up, it would just look like a mistake.

I decided to draw the line at ribbon on the hem of the sleeves. What do you think?

Any comments about the idea of a ribbon of sorts to join the sides? (probably you need to see it on me to really tell)

How about the idea of beading the other side of the ribbon down?

I am currently doing something which I can tell you next week. and sewing bits of the wardrobe in-between. So, that is why I have not been able to do the 'how I did this' post or the 'this is what it looks like when I wear it' photos yet.

Wardrobe - Knit top

Being very discouraged about the meds v weight gain which I mentioned recently, I decided to take motivation from the current Pattern Review Wardrobe contest. Plenty of things fit, but not necessarily things that go together! Since I am in need of some basics anyway, (because I tend to go for interesting fabrics!) I have settled on a black and off-white scheme. I may introduce colour at some point, but for now I am sticking with those contrasts.

The rules:

The contest runs 1 April through 15 May, 2015

"During this 6-week contest, you'll be required to sew the following 9 items:
4 tops
3 bottoms
2 sewist's choice
The tops may be tee's, blouses, shirts, tunics--pretty much any item that covers the top half of your body!
Bottoms may be pants, shorts, jeans, skirts, culottes, jumpsuits, etc.
The 2 "Sewist's Choice" items may be another top or bottom, a dress, a jacket or cardigan (just examples).
ONE item, and only one item, can be something previously purchased or sewn or purchased during the contest.
For this contest, swimsuits will not be eligible.
Each top must coordinate with each bottom. A dress, if included, must coordinate with the other items but may be worn alone."

So, of course I started with a challenge to myself. I seldom if ever sew knits. But I had a piece of black firm knit (not up on the terminology!) so this is the first garment.

I had to manipulate the photo on the computer so it would show black knit...more important than true wardrobe door colour!

I used a bodice pattern I drafted a few years and several pounds ago. I know enough about knits to know you don't really need much ease. I had enough of the black knit to trial the garment and then to make it up. The first try was a bit too snug, but I made it long enough to perhaps be a body shaper of sorts. (although the proof of that will have to be in the wearing!) So, possibly a wearable toile.

The second try was fine and I went on to finish it off nicely as you can see in the photo above. I used a topstitching stitch to give a change from dull black to a sharper more interesting look.

The bodice pattern I used had a side bust dart. I traced it off and then rotated the dart into the neckline.  I have taken photos of that process, but I might not be able to do the tutorial on how-to until later in the week. And hopefully it won't be too long before I can get some wearing the clothes photos, too.

So, that is no.1 out of the nine! At this writing, I am pretty much halfway.

And the last one for now

I just got photos of this last blouse today. It is a paisley print in turquoise. I have used some other colourways for some of the Ramshackle houses, but this turquoise wanted to be a blouse.

When I was sewing up these blouses, I found I really didn't have many white buttons. I had some shirt buttons that were white on the back, which I thought to use for this blouse, but there weren't any buttons which worked for the coral print with white contrast. So, I used the white at the back buttons for it...with the white showing.

Instead, I put some translucent buttons on this blouse. They were fine really, but I wanted the bit of white for interest. So, when I bought the bags of buttons at the Knitting and Stitching show, one reason for picking up the white ones was to use the small ones for this. When I opened the bag, though, I realised it wasn't some patterned and some white, but all were patterned.

So, as I had bought 2 packs, I decided there were plenty for whatever I might do with them and that I could use some of these upside down as well. The above shows a few upside down.

Here is a photo in the midst of the change over to white. I just like the bright spark they give. You can see them in the photo of the blouse being worn.

Can you tell what my favourite colour is after this recent bout of garment sewing? I had to buy more Gutterman 736 after this!

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While I was taking more photos, I took a photo of the red spot fabric in front of the light. I wanted to show you what I meant the other day about the spots being acid etched or something.

Spotted fabrics - thinner at the spots. the other two colours were also that way.