Blouse with Double Collar, Double Cuff and Double Placket. Side bust dart, double waist shaping darts in front and back
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I made 2 blouses like this before. Previous double collar blouses
However for this one, I added to the side seams and made extra waist shaping darts.
The blouse pattern is based on my own block. The collar, cuffs, and placket are all drafted by a simple rectangle. So, if you have a blouse pattern you like the fit of, you can easily draft rectangles to fit. Then follow instructions for stitching a straight or mandarin collar, etc. If you want a double collar, make it smaller all the way around than the tall one. I went by eye with the rectangles to work out what I thought was a pleasing arrangement.
The outside collar is stitched right sides together on the short sides, turned as you would normally and the raw edge laid against the neckline. It should come a bit short on both ends. (This was done after the button placket of course, so I matched the outside collar to the edge of the outside button placket.) you can machine tack/baste it in place.
Stitch and turn the inside collar and then stitch it to the neckline as if the other was not there. I matched the edges of it to the edges of the inside button placket. It will take a bit of pressing to get the SA to behave, but you can do it!
Detail of double collar, cuff and placket with subtle colour contrast
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I basically followed the same steps as before. However, this time I used a blue cotton as sew-in interfacing on the inside collars, cuffs, and button placket to give a subtle contrast rather than a more obvious contrast in the first blouse.
I like using fabric as a sew-in interfacing because it behaves more like the fabric than manufactured interfacing. In this case, it allows a different look because of the colour of the fabric used under the thin cotton lawn.
It also means you can selectively cut your collar or cuff, etc from fabrics like this embroidered one. I used this characteristic for the cuff. The motifs I chose to 'fussy cut' from the fabric were on the bias, but using a woven fabric as interfacing makes it behave as if it were cut on the proper grain.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the fact that you can play with colours to give a unique look to a blouse.
I will probably let one of the back waist darts out. I am not happy with the look in the photo!
But to be fair, the heavy collar in the front distorts a bit, so when you lift your arm to push the camera timer and then turn around, you are already all out of sorts!
Embroidered Cotton Lawn
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Besides the light blue cotton for a subtle touch of colour, I increased the blouse 2cm on front and back at the side seams. Then added another waist shaping dart on both front and back.
I had forgotten that I left out interfacing on the top layers of collar, cuff and placket, and because I used a firm white cotton as sew-in interfacing, these areas are a lot more stiff than the first one. I will have to remember next time because it has caused it to be a bit heavy for the cotton lawn.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I would sew it again, but probably go back to one dart for waist shaping as it seems my waist is not as shaped as I thought! LOL
A lovely blouse for the summer. The colours of the embroidery are not real strong. So it still can read as a white blouse. But they give a delicate interest and make it so I can wear this with blue - skirts or jeans or even brown/tan.
If you can't quite understand the instructions above for the double collar and so on, I am happy to try to explain it better.